Westword July 29, 2010 : Page 44
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Jesse Morreale and Sean Yontz were the first to get on board the tricked-out truck concept a few years ago, but that project stalled with the management switch at Mezcal in late December. “It amuses me, all this truck DRINK OF THE WEEK Hemingway Daiquiri Capital Grille 1450 Larimer Street 303-539-2500 I am a creature of habit. In the past, when I found myself at the bar at Capital Grille — which was quite often, since this steakhouse in Larimer Square is both an easy spot to start an evening and a handy place to end one — I always ordered a Stoli Doli ($12), a martini made with pineapple-infused StolichnayaVodka. I’ve had a lot of extraordinary nights drinking Stoli Dolis — and a few really bad nights drinking them, too. Because while this cocktail is damn tasty, it’s also deceptively potent — and the smoked salmon I often ordered to sop up some of the alcohol (from an appetizer list that doesn’t have many good bar options) was rarely an adequate sponge. But when I stopped by the Capital Grille recently, I discovered that not only does it have a new bar menu that’s been introduced at all of the chain’s steakhouses — fantastic miniature tenderloin sandwiches with wild mushrooms and Boursin cheese, lobster and crab burgers, lollipop lamb chops — but new drink offerings as well. Fortifi ed bya few of the new snacks, I ordered a Hemingway Daiquiri ($9), made with Cruzan Estate light rum, Luxardo Maraschino liqueur, freshly squeezed lime, rubyred grapefruit juice and cane sugar syrup. This twist on a classic shaken daiquiri was as good a version as I’ve had in Denver (where, admittedly, there have been very few to try). he hot food story of the summer is the success of the gourmet food trucks and stuff,” Morreale says. “I came up with it after seeing the ice cream truck for sale in Grand Junction. I had never heard about all these hipster trucks cruising around the Coast.” Today, Morreale and Yontz have their hands full with El Diablo, the restaurant that will open within the month at First and Broadway — and when it does, it should fea-ture tacos and other Mexican street food that will leavetheir former truck fare in the dust. Trucktruce? The food fi ght between Colorado Fresh Markets and Civic Center Eats might be over.When one of the Cherry Creek market’s mobile-food vendors showed up on the first day of this season’s Civic Center Eats, Colo-rado Fresh Markets invoked the non-compete clause in its contract. But after Laura Shunk reported the controversy, Colorado Fresh Markets apparently called a truck truce. “In the spirit of cooperation, in full support of the parks and the street food scene, and in hopes that this will drive more business to our Saturday, Sunday and Wednesday Denver markets,” wrote Chris Burke, co-owner of Colorado Fresh Market, “we will make an exception for the remainder of this season for those vendors who wish to participate in the Civic Center market.” The stories in this column were culled from Cafe Society posts; to read the originals and for daily updates, go to westword.com. DRINK OF THE WEEK single entree or 50% OFF any second entree cafe society Move over, Stoli Doli: Here’s the Hemingway Daiquiri. I still love the Stoli Doli, but this Hemingway Daiquiri could become a habit — and it’s already reason to stop by the Capital Grille even more often. — NANCY LEVINE Contact the author at nancy.levine@westword.com. JULY29-AUGUST4,2010 N WESTWORD | BACKBEAT | CAFE | ART | THEATER | MOVIES | NIGHT+DAY | CITY LIMITS | OFF LIMITS | ¡ASK A MEXICAN! | LETTERS | CONTENTS | WORST-CASE SCENARIO | westword.com NANCY LEVINE
Cafe Society
The hot food story of the summer is the success of the gourmet food trucks and carts, which we predicted in our June 3 cover story. So far, we’ve seen trucks from Steuben’s, Deluxe (read Lori Midson’s interview with Dylan Moore on page 40), Paris on the Platte, WaterCourse Foods and the Denver Biscuit Company, in addition to such gourmet carts as Biker Jim’s, the Gastro Cart, Comida, Streat Chefs and Pinche Tacos. And the Cupcake Truck, of course.
Although the trend was slow to arrive in Denver, it’s taken off quickly. “If I had more time on my hands, I’d be building trucks,” confesses Josh Wolkon, the driving force behind the Steuben’s truck. “It’s happening.” On Friday, many of these enterprises will happen to converge in a still-secret spot.
“Almost all the trucks and high-end vendors are working together at least for a launch event,” says Wolkon. “We’re all going to pop up at the same place at the same time. It will be our own version of the Portland pod.” For details, stay tuned to the Twitter and Facebook accounts of your favorite trucks/ carts. And to the Latest Word, of course, where you’ll also find an update on the status of El Mariachi, the Mezcal taco truck. Jesse Morreale and Sean Yontz were the first to get on board the tricked-out truck concept a few years ago, but that project stalled with the management switch at Mezcal in late December. “It amuses me, all this truck stuff,” Morreale says. “I came up with it after seeing the ice cream truck for sale in Grand Junction. I had never heard about all these hipster trucks cruising around the Coast.” Today, Morreale and Yontz have their hands full with El Diablo, the restaurant that will open within the month at First and Broadway — and when it does, it should feature tacos and other Mexican street food that will leave their former truck fare in the dust.
Truck truce? The food fight between Colorado Fresh Markets and Civic Center Eats might be over. When one of the Cherry Creek market’s mobile-food vendors showed up on the first day of this season’s Civic Center Eats, Colorado Fresh Markets invoked the non-compete clause in its contract. But after Laura Shunk reported the controversy, Colorado Fresh Markets apparently called a truck truce. “In the spirit of cooperation, in full support of the parks and the street food scene, and in hopes that this will drive more business to our Saturday, Sunday and Wednesday Denver markets,” wrote Chris Burke, co-owner of Colorado Fresh Market, “we will make an exception for the remainder of this season for those vendors who wish to participate in the Civic Center market.”
Drink Of The Week
I am a creature of habit. In the past, when I found myself at the bar at Capital Grille — which was quite often, since this steakhouse in Larimer Square is both an easy spot to start an evening and a handy place to end one — I always ordered a Stoli Doli ($12), a martini made with pineapple-infused Stolichnaya Vodka. I’ve had a lot of extraordinary nights drinking Stoli Dolis — and a few really bad nights drinking them, too. Because while this cocktail is damn tasty, it’s also deceptively potent — and the smoked salmon I often ordered to sop up some of the alcohol (from an appetizer list that doesn’t have many good bar options) was rarely an adequate sponge. But when I stopped by the Capital Grille recently, I discovered that not only does it have a new bar menu that’s been introduced at all of the chain’s steakhouses — fantastic miniature tenderloin sandwiches with wild mushrooms and Boursin cheese, lobster and crab burgers, lollipop lamb chops — but new drink offerings as well. Fortified by a few of the new snacks, I ordered a Hemingway Daiquiri ($9), made with Cruzan Estate light rum, Luxardo Maraschino liqueur, freshly squeezed lime, ruby red grapefruit juice and cane sugar syrup. This twist on a classic shaken daiquiri was as good a version as I’ve had in Denver (where, admittedly, there have been very few to try).
I still love the Stoli Doli, but this Hemingway Daiquiri could become a habit — and it’s already reason to stop by the Capital Grille even more often.
